K‑beauty terms, explained

Oil cleanser and cleansing balm

오일 클렌저 · 클렌징 밤

The first step of a double cleanse. An oil or a balm that melts into oil, used on dry skin to dissolve sunscreen and make-up, then rinsed off with water.

When

Evening, first step.

After 40?

Yes. Gentle on drier skin and the easiest way to remove sunscreen properly.

Example: Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil, from £14.44

Example: Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm, from £17.00

Water-based cleanser

폼 클렌저

A gel or foam wash used after the oil cleanser, or alone in the morning, to clean the skin itself. Look for “low pH” on the label for a gentler wash.

When

Morning, and second step in the evening.

After 40?

Yes, but choose a gentle, low-pH one so skin doesn’t feel tight.

Example: COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, from £8.76

Toner

토너

Korean toners are watery hydrators, not the stinging astringents some of us remember. Some are exfoliating, with AHA or BHA, so check the label.

When

After cleansing, patted in with your hands.

After 40?

A hydrating toner, yes. Use exfoliating toners only a few nights a week.

Example: COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner, from £15.00

Milky toner

밀키 토너

A toner with a light, milky texture that hydrates and softens like a very thin lotion. Some, like rice toners, have two layers you shake together.

When

After cleansing, instead of a watery toner.

After 40?

Yes, especially for dry skin. A comforting first layer.

Example: Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk, from £13.00

Toner pads

토너 패드

Soft cotton pads soaked in toner. Quick and tidy. Many contain exfoliating acids, while others are just soothing or hydrating.

When

After cleansing. Swipe or leave on as a mini mask.

After 40?

Choose hydrating or soothing pads. Use exfoliating pads sparingly, never on retinol nights.

Essence

에센스

A lightweight, watery-to-slightly-thick layer that hydrates and preps skin for what follows. The “first treatment essence” is a famous Korean step.

When

After toner, before serum.

After 40?

Nice to have rather than essential. Lovely if your skin feels dry or dull.

Example: COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence, from £16.96

Example: Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water, from £12.90

Serum

세럼

A concentrated treatment aimed at one concern, such as dark spots or fine lines. Slightly thicker than an essence.

When

After essence, before moisturiser.

After 40?

Yes. This is where your actives go, like niacinamide or retinal.

Example: Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide, from £12.26

Example: Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rice + Alpha Arbutin, from £14.00

Ampoule

앰플

An extra-concentrated serum, often used as a short “boost” course. In practice, the line between serum and ampoule is blurry, and brands use the names loosely.

When

Same place as a serum. Use one or the other.

After 40?

Optional. Treat it like a serum and don’t pay extra just for the name.

Example: SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule, from £16.87

Emulsion

에멀전

A light lotion, thinner than a cream. Popular in Korea as a lighter moisturiser, especially in summer.

When

After serum, instead of or before cream.

After 40?

Good for combination skin. Most over-40 skin prefers a cream.

Cream

크림

Your moisturiser, which seals everything in. Korean creams range from gel-creams to rich, cushiony formulas.

When

After serum.

After 40?

Essential. Look for richer textures as skin gets drier.

Example: Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream, from £17.32

Example: SKIN1004 Probio-Cica Enrich Cream, from £15.59

Sleeping mask or sleeping pack

슬리핑 팩

A rich overnight layer that goes on last at night, over your cream or instead of it.

When

Last step in the evening, a few nights a week.

After 40?

A nice extra for dry skin, not essential.

Wash-off mask

워시오프 팩

A cream or clay mask you apply for a few minutes, then rinse. Used once or twice a week.

When

After cleansing, once or twice a week.

After 40?

Optional. A weekly treat.

Example: Beauty of Joseon Ground Rice and Honey Glow Mask, from £13.00

Sun cream, sun stick and sun serum

선크림 · 선스틱

Korean sunscreens come as creams, light watery serums and twist-up sticks for topping up. PA++++ is the highest UVA rating.

When

Every morning, last step. Top up during the day.

After 40?

Essential. The most important anti-ageing step.

Example: COSRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream SPF50+ PA+++, from £10.03

Example: SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum, from £12.64

Example: Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick Mugwort + Camelia, from £13.00

Double cleansing

Cleansing twice in the evening: an oil or balm first, then a water-based cleanser.

Low pH

A cleanser close to the skin’s natural slightly acidic pH, which is gentler on the skin barrier.

Cica

Short for centella asiatica, a calming plant extract. Read our centella guide.

Hanbang

Traditional Korean herbal medicine. Products with ginseng and other herbs often use the term.

Glass skin

A very clear, dewy, poreless look, the goal of many K-beauty routines.

7-skin method

Patting on seven thin layers of toner for deep hydration. Three is plenty for most of us.

Skip-care

The opposite trend: fewer, multi-tasking products. A sensible approach after 40.

PA++++

The Asian rating for UVA protection, which helps protect against skin ageing. More plus signs mean more protection.