Retinal and retinol, explained
Forms of vitamin A, and the most researched over-the-counter ingredients for fine lines and texture.
What they do
Skin converts retinol into retinal, and retinal into retinoic acid, the form that actually acts on skin cells. Retinoic acid is the prescription ingredient tretinoin. Retinal is one step closer to it than retinol, so it tends to work a little faster at similar strengths. All three encourage skin to renew itself and to make more collagen over time.
What the research shows
In people aged 80 and over, a 0.4% retinol lotion used on the arms for 24 weeks reduced fine wrinkling and increased markers of collagen production compared with a lotion without retinol.
Kafi and colleagues, Archives of Dermatology, 2007 [1]
In a months-long trial, 0.05% retinaldehyde (retinal) improved signs of sun damage about as well as 0.05% prescription tretinoin, with less irritation.
Creidi and colleagues, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1998 [2]
Results take months, not weeks, and most people see some dryness or flaking at first.
How to use it after 40
- Start two or three nights a week with a pea-sized amount, and build up as your skin settles.
- Apply to dry skin, then follow with moisturiser. A calming centella cream pairs well.
- Wear sunscreen every day, since vitamin A makes skin more sensitive to the sun.
- Don’t use it if you’re pregnant or trying to conceive, and check with your GP or pharmacist if you use prescription skin treatments.
Sources
- Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.
- Creidi P et al. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998.
This page is general information, not medical advice.