Exfoliators, explained
Acids, toner pads and scrubs: which suits skin over 40, and how to exfoliate without irritation.
Good evidence
Why exfoliate after 40?
As we get older, skin sheds dead cells more slowly. They build up on the surface, so skin can look dull, rough and uneven, and products don’t sink in as well. Gentle, regular exfoliation helps with texture and brightness. It isn’t about scrubbing harder.
The types
AHA (alpha hydroxy acids)
Glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid
Dissolve the “glue” between dead cells on the surface, so skin looks smoother and brighter. The best researched type for sun-damaged, ageing skin. Lactic and mandelic acid are gentler than glycolic.
BHA (beta hydroxy acid)
Salicylic acid and betaine salicylate
Oil-soluble, so it works inside pores. Best for blackheads, breakouts and oily areas. Betaine salicylate is a gentler cousin often used in Korean products.
PHA (polyhydroxy acids)
Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid
Larger molecules that work more slowly on the surface, so they’re usually gentler and also hydrating. A good choice for sensitive or dry skin. There’s less research than for AHAs.
Enzymes
Papain (papaya) and bromelain (pineapple)
Fruit enzymes that loosen dead cells. Gentle, often in powder washes and masks.
Scrubs and powders
Rice powder, fine grains
Physical exfoliation by gently rubbing. Fine powders are fine; avoid harsh, jagged scrubs and don’t press hard.
Toner pads
Pads soaked in an acid toner
A format rather than an ingredient: an easy, measured way to use AHA, BHA or PHA. Check the label for which acid and how strong.
What the research shows
In a double-blind trial, people with sun-damaged skin used 8% glycolic acid, 8% lactic acid or a plain cream twice a day for 22 weeks. About three-quarters of the acid groups improved by at least one grade, compared with 40% on the plain cream. The researchers called the benefit modest but real, and the creams were well tolerated.
Stiller and colleagues, Archives of Dermatology, 1996 [1]
A smaller study using a stronger 25% AHA lotion on the forearms for about six months found skin became around 25% thicker, with signs of improved collagen and elastic fibres.
Ditre and colleagues, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1996 [2]
These are older studies, and skincare strengths are usually lower, but they’re why AHAs have a solid reputation for ageing skin. BHA has good evidence for blackheads and breakouts. PHA and enzymes have less research.
How to use an exfoliator after 40
- Start two or three nights a week, after cleansing and before serum.
- Not on the same night as a retinoid. See what pairs well.
- Wear sunscreen every day, as acids can make skin more sun-sensitive.
- Stop for a week if you notice stinging, tightness, peeling or a shiny, “tight” look. That’s over-exfoliation.
- One exfoliating product is enough. Don’t combine an acid toner, acid serum and scrub.
Who should be careful
If your skin is very sensitive or you have rosacea or eczema, try a PHA or skip acids and ask your GP or a dermatologist. If you’re pregnant, check with your GP or midwife before using salicylic acid.
Compare prices: exfoliators
The cheapest delivered price we found at UK and Korean shops. Tap a product to compare every shop.
- Compare prices for COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquidfrom £18.99 delivered
- Compare prices for COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Tonerfrom £18.99 delivered
- Compare prices for COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanserfrom £14.99 delivered
- Compare prices for COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanserfrom £16.94 delivered
Good to know
How often should I exfoliate after 40?
Two or three times a week is plenty for most people. Start with once or twice and build up slowly if your skin is happy.
Can I use an acid exfoliant with retinol or retinal?
Not on the same night. Use them on different evenings to avoid irritation.
Which exfoliator is best for sensitive skin?
A PHA or a gentle lactic acid, used once or twice a week. If you have rosacea or very reactive skin, ask your GP or a dermatologist first.
Do I need sunscreen when using acids?
Yes. Acids, especially AHAs, can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so wear SPF30 or higher every day.
Sources
- Stiller MJ et al. Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin: a double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Arch Dermatol. 1996;132:631-6.
- Ditre CM et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;34:187-95.
This page is general information, not medical advice. Last updated 30 October 2026.