The Actives Edit

Beauty devices after 40, explained

LED masks, microcurrent and Korean “booster” devices are everywhere, and they’re not cheap. Here’s what the science actually supports, and how to spend wisely.

Start here: the budget truth

Before spending hundreds on a device, make sure you have the basics. They have the strongest evidence and cost the least:

  1. Daily sunscreen, around £10 to £15. The single most effective anti-ageing step.
  2. A retinoid such as retinal, around £15 to £25. Decades of research for fine lines and firmness.
  3. A good moisturiser, especially as skin gets drier with age.

A device is an optional extra on top of these, not a replacement.

The devices

LED light masks

Red and near-infrared light

Promising evidence £30 to £400+

What it does: Red light (around 630–660nm) and near-infrared (around 830nm) are the colours with the most research for ageing skin. Studies suggest they can gently boost collagen and soften fine lines over 8 to 12 weeks of regular use. Blue light is aimed at breakouts, not ageing.

The honest bit: Results depend on power and wavelength, and many cheap masks don’t say how strong they are. It’s a slow, modest change, not a facelift.

Microcurrent devices

Tiny electrical currents

Limited evidence £50 to £400+

What it does: Said to “exercise” facial muscles for a lifted look. Many users notice a temporary lift straight after use.

The honest bit: There’s very little independent research, and most studies are small or brand-funded. Any lift tends to fade if you stop, so it needs regular use.

Radiofrequency (RF) devices

Gentle heat under the skin

Limited to promising £100 to £400+

What it does: Warms the deeper layers to encourage collagen. Clinic RF treatments have reasonable evidence; home devices are much weaker.

The honest bit: Home versions are low-powered, so changes are subtle. Don’t use over fillers without checking with your practitioner.

Multi-function “booster” devices

LED, microcurrent, RF or EMS in one

Limited evidence £150 to £350

What it does: Popular Korean devices combine several technologies and are often used with a matching gel or serum to help it sink in.

The honest bit: You’re paying for several technologies, each with limited home evidence. Try before committing, and check the return policy.

Gua sha and facial rollers

Stone or metal tools

Limited evidence £5 to £30

What it does: A relaxing facial massage that can reduce morning puffiness for a short time.

The honest bit: Any de-puffing is temporary. It won’t lift or firm skin. Lovely as a ritual, and cheap.

What the research shows

In a randomised, controlled trial of 136 volunteers, twice-weekly red and near-infrared light treatments for 30 sessions improved skin roughness and collagen density measured by ultrasound, and blinded assessors saw fewer fine lines compared with untreated controls.

Wunsch and Matuschka, Photomedicine and Laser Surgery, 2014 [1]

That study used professional light units, which are usually more powerful than home masks. Research on home LED masks is growing but smaller, and many cheaper masks don’t state their power, so it’s hard to know if they match the studies. For microcurrent and home radiofrequency, there’s very little good independent research yet.

Spending wisely

Under £30

Put it towards sunscreen and a retinoid first. A gua sha is a lovely, cheap ritual for puffiness.

£30 to £100

Budget LED masks often don’t state their power output. If you buy one, check the wavelengths and return policy, and treat it as a nice extra.

£150 and over

Choose a device that states its wavelengths and power, has UK safety marking and comes with a trial or return period. Work out the cost per use: a £300 mask used four times a week for a year is about £1.40 a session.

Using a device safely

Our take: red and near-infrared LED is the only home device with reasonable evidence for ageing skin, and even then results are modest and slow. Spend on sunscreen and a retinoid first. If you love a gadget and can afford it, a well-made LED mask is the one we’d consider.

Good to know

Do LED face masks really work after 40?

Red and near-infrared light have the best evidence of any home device, with studies showing modest improvements in fine lines and collagen over a few months. Results depend on the mask’s power and on using it consistently.

Is an LED mask better than retinol?

No. Retinoids and daily sunscreen have far more evidence and cost much less. An LED mask is an optional extra on top, not a replacement.

Are LED masks safe for your eyes?

Use the eye protection provided and follow the instructions. If you have an eye condition, take medicines that make you sensitive to light, or have a history of skin cancer, ask your GP first.

What should I check before buying an LED mask?

The wavelengths (red around 630–660nm and near-infrared around 830nm), whether it states its power output, UK safety marking, eye protection and a good return policy.

Sources

  1. Wunsch A, Matuschka K. A controlled trial to determine the efficacy of red and near-infrared light treatment in patient satisfaction, reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and intradermal collagen density increase. Photomed Laser Surg. 2014;32(2):93-100.

This page is general information, not medical advice. Last updated 30 October 2026.