The Actives Edit

Panthenol, explained

The quiet hero in 18 of our products. A soothing, hydrating ingredient with more research behind it than you might expect.

Good evidence

What it is

Panthenol, also called provitamin B5 or dexpanthenol, is turned into pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) once it’s absorbed into the skin. It’s a humectant, so it draws water into the skin, and it’s been used in creams for wounds and nappy rash for over 70 years. You’ll find it in serums, toners and creams all over K-beauty.

What the research shows

Studies over several decades show that dexpanthenol improves skin hydration, reduces water loss through the skin and helps the skin barrier recover after damage. It also has calming, anti-itch effects.

Proksch and colleagues, Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2017 (a review) [1]

In a study of volunteers whose skin barrier was deliberately disrupted, a dexpanthenol cream helped the barrier recover faster and kept skin better hydrated than the comparison.

Gehring and Gloor, Arzneimittelforschung, 2000 [2]

Formulas with panthenol increased skin moisture in volunteers, with higher concentrations giving a longer-lasting effect.

Camargo and colleagues, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011 [3]

Most of the research is on comfort and hydration, not on wrinkles. It won’t replace a retinoid, but it makes a very good supporting ingredient.

Who it suits

Panthenol suits almost everyone, and especially dry, tight or easily irritated skin, which becomes more common after 40 and around menopause. It’s a useful partner if you’re using retinoids or acids, as it helps keep skin comfortable.

How to use it after 40

  • Use it morning and night. It’s usually already in your serum, toner or cream.
  • It pairs well with every other ingredient, including retinal, vitamin C and acids.
  • Look for “panthenol” or “dexpanthenol” in the ingredients list.
Our take: one of the most useful supporting ingredients in skincare. Not a wrinkle treatment, but great for comfortable, hydrated skin.

Sources

Products with panthenol