Squalane and oils, explained
Squalane, jojoba, shea butter and other plant oils keep moisture in. Here’s which ones help, and the one surprise.
Good evidence
What it is
Squalane is a stable, lightweight oil similar to squalene, an oil your skin makes naturally and makes less of with age. It’s usually made from olives or sugar cane.
Plant oils and butters, such as jojoba, shea, macadamia, camellia and safflower, soften the skin and form a light layer that slows water loss.
What the research shows
A review found squalene and squalane are well tolerated, moisturising and help soften the skin, which is why they’re used so widely in skincare.
Huang and colleagues, Molecules, 2009 [1]
Many plant oils support the skin barrier, particularly those rich in linoleic acid, such as sunflower and safflower oil.
Lin and colleagues, International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2017 [2]
The surprise: in a small study, olive oil used on its own weakened the skin barrier, while sunflower oil did not.
Danby and colleagues, Pediatric Dermatology, 2013 [3]
Oils are proven moisturisers, but they don’t repair lines on their own. In a well-made cream, they’re combined with ingredients that do.
Who it suits
Dry skin, which becomes more common after 40 and around menopause. If you get breakouts, choose lighter oils such as squalane or jojoba, and use them sparingly.
How to use it after 40
- Use creams with oils as your last step at night, or a few drops of squalane pressed over your moisturiser.
- Pure oils work best on damp skin, after your serums.
Sources
- Huang ZR et al. Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules. 2009.
- Lin TK et al. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017.
- Danby SG et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013.
This page is general information, not medical advice. Last updated 4 November 2026.
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