Calming plants, explained
Heartleaf, mugwort, tea tree, green tea and aloe appear in dozens of K-beauty products. Here’s what they do, and how strong the evidence is.
Early evidence
What it is
- Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata): a traditional Asian herb, made famous by Anua, used to calm redness and oiliness.
- Mugwort (Artemisia): a soothing herb used in Korean medicine.
- Tea tree: an Australian plant oil used for spots.
- Green tea: rich in antioxidants called catechins.
- Aloe, oat, chamomile and allantoin: classic soothing ingredients.
What the research shows
Tea tree has the best human evidence of the group: in a trial of 124 people with acne, 5% tea tree gel reduced spots, more slowly than 5% benzoyl peroxide but with fewer side effects.
Bassett and colleagues, Medical Journal of Australia, 1990 [1]
For heartleaf and mugwort, the research is mostly in the lab, showing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. Large human trials are still missing.
Seoul River summary of published research
These plants help skin feel calmer and more comfortable, but don’t expect them to change lines or dark spots.
Who it suits
Redness-prone, sensitive or breakout-prone skin, and anyone whose skin feels irritated by stronger actives. Plant extracts can occasionally cause allergies themselves, so patch test if your skin is very reactive. Undiluted tea tree oil can irritate, so stick to products made for the face.
How to use it after 40
- Use calming toners, serums or creams morning and night.
- They pair well with retinoids and acids to keep skin comfortable.
- For spots, tea tree works best as a gentle, regular treatment rather than a quick fix.
Sources
This page is general information, not medical advice. Last updated 4 November 2026.
Products with calming plants
The cheapest price we found at trusted UK shops. Tap a product to compare every shop.
- Compare prices for COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanserfrom £12.95
- Compare prices for Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture 5.5 Soft Cleansing Gelfrom £14.00
- Compare prices for Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenolfrom £15.00
- Compare prices for COSRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream SPF50+ PA+++from £15.00
- Compare prices for Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick Mugwort + Cameliafrom £15.50
- Compare prices for Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Airyfit Daily Sunscreen SPF50+from £15.90
- Compare prices for Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oilfrom £16.00
- Compare prices for Purito Oat-in Calming Gel Creamfrom £16.00