Actives, explained
Every ingredient we cover, from the best researched to the newest, in plain English.
Strong and good evidence
TretinoinThe strongest retinoid, prescription-only in the UK. How to get it safely.Strongest evidence, prescription onlyRetinal and retinolThe best-studied ingredients for fine lines. How they differ and how to start.Strong evidenceAzelaic acidA gentle multitasker for redness, dark spots and breakouts.Good evidenceCeramidesBarrier repair for drier, more sensitive skin after 40.Good evidence for dry skinExfoliatorsAHA, BHA, PHA and toner pads, and how to exfoliate gently after 40.Good evidenceHyaluronic acidThe hydration hero: what it can and can’t do for skin over 40.Good evidence for hydrationNiacinamideVitamin B3 for barrier support and dark spots.Good evidenceTranexamic acidA dark-spot ingredient borrowed from medicine, now in K-beauty serums.Good evidenceVitamin CThe classic antioxidant for brightness, dark spots and firmness.Good evidence
Promising
AdenosineKorea’s approved “wrinkle improvement” ingredient, explained.Promising evidenceBakuchiolThe plant-based, gentler alternative to retinol.Promising evidenceCentella asiaticaThe calming plant extract in so many K-beauty products.Promising evidencePeptidesGentle messengers for firmer-looking skin, and which types have evidence.Promising evidence
Popular, research growing
Alpha-arbutinA gentle brightener for age spots, and how strong the evidence is.Research growingPDRN (“salmon DNA”)The newest trend. Is it worth it after 40?Research growingSnail mucinWhy a snail secretion became a skincare staple.Research growingCollagenCreams vs supplements: what collagen can and can’t do after 40.Mixed evidence